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Articles written by Larry Davidson


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  • May the Lamb be with Ewe

    Larry Davidson|Dec 12, 2013

    At this time of year I, as many people do, think back to the Christmases of my youth and the dishes that my mother spent days preparing. Mind you, my dear mum couldn't make you an edible scrambled egg or hamburger that you'd want to do anything with other than discretely chop up and slyly pass to the dog under the table when eyes weren't settled on you, but set the herculean task of a grand holiday meal in her sights and she was transformed into a formidable taskmaster, enlisting and commanding any and all within her grasp to ensure that everyt... Full story

  • Perfect Wine for Thanksgiving

    Larry Davidson|Nov 14, 2013

    Last year I had fun writing about the surprisingly good Pasek Cellars Cranberry wine, which brought about some awesome and somewhat funny responses from some of you. I know it was a big leap of faith but wasn't it great to surprise your family and friends with an interesting Washington state oddity? This year's recommendation is on the mainstream side and it's local. Being it's Thanksgiving, I'll talk turkey and turkey needs wine! Since I rarely prepare turkey any other time of the year (much to the chagrin of the National Turkey Federation) I...

  • It’s All Gravy

    Larry Davidson|Nov 14, 2013

    I n sticking with this Thanksgiving theme, I'm talking gravy - real homemade from scratch gravy. Please, I beg of you - don't buy that stuff in a can or in that packet! That's not gravy - it's salty paste with fake chicken flavor- ing for goodness sake. You can re-sole you shoes with that canned stuff and the powder in the packet? You can fine sand your cabinetry with it! Considering how easy it is to make great gravy you should never EVER buy that stuff again. So how do you make great homemade gravy? Well sit down here by the fire and I'll...

  • Novello or Nouveau

    Larry Davidson|Oct 10, 2013

    In keeping with this month's autumn theme, this time of year has me looking forward to the release of one of the great relatively new trends of the wine world. In France the production of Beaujolais Nouveau (made exclusively from the Gamay Noir grape) is in full swing in the southern Burgundy region while in Italy they've decided not to limit the production of this style of wine to just one region or grape but the whole place is crazily awash in Vino Novello made out of everything from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Corvina, Nero d'Avola,...

  • Lentilles du Puy – Huh?

    Larry Davidson|Oct 10, 2013

    Leaves are changing colors and fluttering down off the trees; the smell of wood smoke is in the air, sweaters and boots are being pulled out of storage at record pace. These first cold snaps of autumn make me yearn for comfort food; longings for the richer foods that speak of a rustic coun­tryside full of the flavors and fall staples of which lentilles du puy immediately spring to mind. The little green lentils are kind of a magic bean. They are hearty, flavorful and as mentioned above, loaded with things that are good for you. They are also... Full story

  • DRINK

    Larry Davidson|Sep 12, 2013

    Last Thursday afternoon I was flipping some magnificent rib eyes on the grill when I looked up to see a massive wall - like an enormous tidal wave of black and brown cloud - bearing down on me. The surrounding trees were whipping around like drunken hula dancers as branches started snapping and leaves mixed with walnuts flew through the air. The power line behind the house bounced and crackled in time with the gale-force wind blasting the region. It was during dinner just a short while later as I sipped on an excellent Washington cabernet that...

  • EAT

    Larry Davidson|Sep 12, 2013

    This is a quick-draw down-and-dirty list with some easy pointers, because I get tired of chips and dip - usually by the second game of the season. So here are some easy options that offer up a little zip, zing and zest to your game time munchies menu. 1. White Bean and Roasted Garlic Stuff! Yes - this is awesome and beats the old refried beans with melted ched­dar every time. The night before the game, get two heads of garlic, two cans of white beans, a red onion, a fresh bunch of Italian parsley and some crunchy rustic French bread. Put the...

  • DRINK

    Larry Davidson|Aug 8, 2013

    It's hot, it's humid, you've been working out in the back 40 all day, you're tired, thirsty and if you're anything like me, somewhat cranky too. The worst part is you're also out of ideas. You've had more lemonade than humanly possible over the first half of summer, drank 9 bottles of water this morning, soda is just too sweet for the heat and a beer just isn't doing the trick. Where to turn? This is a serious problem I know but bear with me - I have a solution and it works using a rather maligned grape from right here at home -...

  • EAT

    Larry Davidson|Aug 8, 2013

    It's Sunday morning and before I even open my eyes thoughts drift downstairs, hoping the kitchen fairy is putting a package of bacon in the oven. That magi­cal smell wafts up like a Bugs Bunny cartoon smoke swirl, tickling taste buds with a waving, beckoning come-hither finger. Bacon - that supreme porky treat which is everywhere at once these days. Why am I writing about bacon when everyone else already has? After all, isn't bacon beyond trendy? I mean really - ti's everywhere including some places where it just shouldn't be - from soap to...

  • DRINK

    Larry Davidson|Jul 11, 2013

    Sometimes I miss the days of my youth out at the ballpark when you would hear that siren call of the beer vendor plying a tray of ice-cold beer up and down the aisles, while the thwack of the ball into the catcher's mitt or the crack of the bat lent a resounding aura of history to the afternoon. Continuing with our summer theme, today I'm writing on a subject that I know almost nothing about - beer. Don't get me wrong - I don't dislike beer though I admit that I have an extremely short list of beer that I love which for me makes beer shopping... Full story

  • EAT

    Larry Davidson|Jul 11, 2013

    It is now officially summertime! Thought I'd clue you in just in case you've been living in a cave and hadn't noticed the sweltering temperatures outside. With summer in full swing, the BBQ's are firing up everywhere and the smell of burgers, sausages, chicken, chops and steaks are thick in the air much to the dismay of all those vegans out there. Grilling is one of those do-by-rote things and since we all get stuck in a rut from time to time I thought I'd help expand your hori­zons a bit - like all the way south to Tierra Del Fuego. That... Full story

  • DRINK

    Larry Davidson|Jun 13, 2013

    I did not know Mike Dunham well, but he made a lasting impression on me from the first day I met him a long time ago. I knew that I had met one of the good guys. There is something both exhilarating and terrifying for those who are amid the first wave of anything. The siren call of that new challenge urging forward those adventurous souls who buck trends; those who start something new (and when told "you're crazy" tend to quietly agree and go ahead with it anyway) is not for the faint of heart. We admire these forward-thinking iconoclasts... Full story

  • EAT

    Larry Davidson|Jun 13, 2013

    Hlaf - that's a word that hasn't been used since around c1200. No, it is not a typo - it's the Old English word for "loaf". This is what our forebears called bread. Since the switch there's been no other name for it in the Eng- lish language. Sometime around 8000 BC, some nice folks were sitting around smashing up grain they had gathered to have as a side dish with their gnu entre. It must have rained because a paste formed of this rudimentary flour and in disgust at the mess made by the inclimate weather the blob was tossed into the BBQ. Some... Full story

  • DRINK

    Larry Davidson|May 9, 2013

    We've all been there at one point or another. You're out with friends having a good time and there's always that person who doesn't know when to stop talking, when the internal filter needs to be turned to 11. Sometimes this happens after work on a Friday afternoon unwinding after the week of work has been relegated to the "I don't care" corner. Normally these incidences are benign, leading to some humor- ous recaps later on. Then there are those special events that lead some folks down the path of ruin, where verbal faux pas seems to...

  • EAT

    Larry Davidson|May 9, 2013

    When I started this column about 8 month ago I wanted to showcase, from time to time, something extraordinary, something special, that is the result of the passion of our regional chefs. I wanted my first offer- ing to showcase the amazing dishes I found but we decided to focus on hyper-local and talk about Waitsburg first just to establish the column. I think now that enough time has passed that I can cast the net a little wider and welcome a treat that is just down the road into the mix. Pastrami! This is not some pathetic excuse for...

  • DRINK

    Larry Davidson, The Times|Apr 11, 2013

    Welcome back to the second part of the Spring "what to drink now" wine column continuing the saga of "what do I drink now in this post-winter freeze period" where the easy choice is heavy reds. As promised in last month's install­ment where I blathered on about moving into the world of lighter-bodied reds, I'm now shifting towards the medium body aromatic whites. These wines are perfect for those optimistically warmer days of spring where the mornings are fresh and clean, the afternoons threaten some heat but do not quite get there and the...

  • EAT

    Larry Davidson, The Times|Apr 11, 2013

    I love chicken. I just want that understood right from the get-go. Chicken is the most versatile meat on the planet, and while I know that point could be argued through time eternal please don't bother - my mind's made up on this point. You disagree? Take one minute to think about all the amazing at­tributes of the humble chicken that cannot be matched. White meat or dark meat, crispy skin or not - the birds' got you covered. Whether you like stews, bbq's, fried foods, roasts, stir-fry, sandwiches, braised dishes, pté's, sausages, soups and s...

  • DRINK

    Larry Davidson, The Times|Mar 14, 2013

    As the buds start to swell on just about everything and we're all putting away our heaviest winter clothes, my thoughts always turn tohellip;what to drink with all those "pack-away-the-winter-bins-and-blues" chores. It's no longer cold enough to revel in the brooding heavy reds - like syrahs, cabernet sauvignons and malbecs that pair so well with elk, venison and the other heavy red meats of winter that I love during the darkest winter months. But it's also not warm enough to break out the truly refreshing bright light wines of summer. It is...

  • EAT

    Larry Davidson, The Times|Mar 14, 2013

    One of the signs that spring really has arrived is the appearance of mounds of vibrant green spears of asparagus at your local grocers. It has become one of my favorite rituals of the season, heralding a new and bounti­ful year of fresh garden produce, as the heavier winter roots give way to fresh leafy vegetables. Asparagus is pretty cool stuff, and it has been around for a really long time. The earliest known reference dates back to 3000 BC, where it is depicted on an Egyptian frieze as an offering to the Pharaoh of the day. The Romans...

  • DRINK

    Larry Davidson, The Times|Feb 14, 2013

    Champagne is awesome and has its place. But it’s not the answer for the romantic days of February. The correct answer, for those of you playing along, is sweet wines – wines that are normally considered dessert wines. Sweet wines don’t have to be gross, they just have to be well-made by someone who knows what they’re do­ing with this style of wine. To that end, we’re very fortunate to have a producer right in our own backyard that produces some of the best in the country. First let’s talk about what makes a wine sweet. Sugar. That was easy was... Full story

  • EAT

    Larry Davidson, The Times|Feb 14, 2013

    Yes, I’ll admit it - I’m a romantic! I believe that the ro­mance and attention that we shower on the person we adore should be year round, not just on Valentine’s Day. So what do you do when the ideas run dry and you are grasping to find something to show your sweetheart you care? Showering your love with great food is one of the sim­plest ways to say “I Love You” over and again. So what kind of foods says that precious phrase more than others? There’s a whole category of foods that fall into the realm of natural aphrodisiacs. So I thought I’d...

  • DRINK

    Larry Davidson, Special To The Times|Jan 10, 2013

    Baby, It's Cold Outside - and that means big rich beverages! Yes Virginia, the holidays are finally over, leav­ing in their wake some darned cold days and nights. This is the perfect time of year for heavy comfort foods - stews, potpies, hearty soups and braised meats. With all those heavy dishes goes the need for something deeper, richer, fuller. A wine that can hold up to heavy dishes and that can serve as a course in and of itself. Yes, I am talking about Syrah - or Shiraz if you're an Aussie. Why the two distinct names for the same grape?...

  • EAT

    Larry Davidson, Special To The Times|Jan 10, 2013

    What is stock? Basically it is flavored water. That's it! Except that it is also the number one magical ingredient that any good chef would not be caught dead without. A well-made stock is the single most important com­ponent of any successful dish where a main protein is fea­tured - poultry, beef, pork, fish and game all benefit from good stock and the best part about stock IS their simplicity! Bones, herbs and vegetables are all you need. Do not be fooled - sauces made from packets, bottles and bouillon cubes do not even come close to the fre...

  • DRINK

    Larry Davidson, The Times|Dec 13, 2012

    Sometimes stereotypes and traditions bear an axiom that is undeniably perfect. Sparkling wines, includ­ing champagne, are one of those timeless classics ingrained in popular culture, synonymous with good times and holiday cheer. There are few things more alluring, more beautiful, than a chilled glass of champagne. Bubbles rising in long, slow swirling arcs while icy beads flow down a crystal flute is one of the classic romantic images of all time. There are few bet­ter matches to celebrate the joy and warmth of the holidays than the pop of a c... Full story

  • EAT

    Larry Davidson, The Times|Dec 13, 2012

    Hamming it up for Christmas Yes - it is time to drag out the family cookbooks and start preparing for the descending hoards of family and friends. The tree and lights are up, some of the shopping is done but what to do about Christmas dinner? I'm not one for changing up traditions and tend to cringe when someone says "we're doing something different this yearhellip;" imagining a Christmas tuna casserole or red and green dyed lasagna. Not - I'm a traditionalist when it comes to holiday meals and for Christmas I vote ham! Maybe it has been... Full story

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