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Inspired by the world-class winemakers of our region, and the phenomenal growing conditions in our backyard, last year we planted three rows of little Cabernet Sauvignon starts next to the plum trees. From little twigs they have doubled in size this year, adapting beautifully to their protected sunny spot. While it will be a few years before we harvest enough fruit to make wine, the beautiful tender leaves had me researching a Mediterranean culinary favorite, stuffed grape leaves also called dol...
Beyond basic sustenance, good food is deeply connected to our emotional lives, something we turn to when celebrating the highs or to provide comfort during the lows. This week, bombarded with several unexpected lows, I sought solace in a vat of melted cheese...and maybe a little tequila. Grilled corn and green chilies melted into real cheddar cheese made for a consoling and zesty version of the ever-popular queso dip. Wonderful as an appetizer with tortilla chips, this is a recipe perfect for...
With summer officially here, much of our entertaining has moved outside with meals centered around savory delights cooked on the grill. Whether we are making grilled steaks, hamburgers, or skewers, I am always experimenting with flavorful and unique side dishes. This bright salad, with roasted early summer radishes and young carrots, balanced with creamy whipped ricotta, makes a colorful addition to traditional summer fare. Ingredients: 1 bunch of young carrots, with the frilly tops attached 1...
One of the things I most look forward to in late spring is the first bite of a plump sun ripened strawberry. This year, because of the unseasonable cool and rainy Spring, the harvest in our backyard patch was a little later than usual. All week, we have been plucking bright red berries by the bowlful, just in time for the approaching Summer Solstice. When fruit, such as strawberries, are perfectly ripe and in-season, the general rule is the simpler the preparation the better. Which perhaps is...
With summer just around the corner, and the spring weather finally cooperating, the season for outdoor entertaining has officially started in our backyard. Fresh herbs and wildflowers perfume the air around our deck, and warmth from the late afternoon sun lingers well into dinner time. This week, inspired by the robust rhubarb in the garden, I set out to make a dessert with a taste to match this lovely time of year. Here, a delicate, creamy panna cotta is punctuated with a bottom layer of...
Before moving to Waitsburg, bread baking was an elusive skill I always shied away from. Despite my deep love for all the shapes and styles of bread, the idea of making my own always seemed like an impossible feat. Perhaps inspired by the rolling wheat fields that surround us, I have since learned a lot while discovering the magic that can be made with a few ingredients, patience, and a hot oven. This tender and crusty focaccia was one of the first successful bakes, filling our home with an...
Of the many foods that define the Pacific Northwest, such as apples, berries, wild mushrooms, and shellfish, at the top of the list is the mighty salmon. Culturally and spiritually significant to our various indigenous tribes, salmon was also quickly revered by settler communities. Flavorful and versatile, the many ways to eat salmon represent the diverse cultures that have also come to define this beautiful part of the world. Here I have an easy recipe for gravlax, a Scandinavian style cured...
The days are finally warming up, waking up our vegetable patch with a fresh batch of delicate sprouts and young shoots. A lovely sight as we anticipate the delicious harvests to come. My kitchen herb garden, planted close to the house for quick plucking, has been looking particularly vibrant and lush these past few days. This silky quiche, full of fresh herbs and tender chard, comes alive with verdant spring flavor. Ingredients: 1 flakey crust, unbaked (recipe below) 2 spring Walla Walla...
One of the things I miss about living in a big city are the culinary discoveries that can be made while walking around town. In Seattle's International District, a dense urban neighborhood shaped by past and present influxes of Pacific Rim immigrants, I had a block-by-block map of my favorite restaurants. There were spicy Sichuan hot pots, Hong Kong style dim sum, Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches, heavenly Taiwanese xiao long bao, and of course sushi at the landmark Maneki. It was with memories of...
Certain recipes have the power to transport. As a young boy, I would carefully watch whoever was in the kitchen, fascinated by the magic taking place as delicious meals came together on the stovetop. One vivid memory is of my father rolling meatballs with his big hands and dropping them into a bubbling pot of soup. Years later in Seattle, I would rediscover that soup as an adult. Stopping at one of my favorite Mexican restaurants for lunch one day, I was intrigued to read their special: Sopa de...
It was around this time of year, many moons ago, that I made my first visit to Waitsburg. After the long dusty drive, the bucolic view of vivid green rolling hills surrounding this picturesque little town felt particularly welcoming. The sun was just starting to set as we arrived, the golden light making the abundant spring blooms in the neighborhood glow. Outside, the air was thick with the unmistakable scent of lilacs. The whole town smelled sweet. Years later, during my first spring living...
Over the years, my love for cooking, (mixed with my desire to learn more about half of my ancestry), has led me on a journey exploring the food traditions of Mexico. Some of the discoveries I've made include: homemade tortillas are infinitely better than store-bought, you can never have too many helping hands when making tamales, and serving a bubbling pan of enchiladas is like a hug from the kitchen. The endless variety of fillings and sauces that can be made into enchiladas add to their...
As I am known to be a meat-loving omnivore, some might be surprised to know that vegetarian meals are served several nights a week in our household. Being good for your family's physical health as well as being gentler on the planet are two big reasons to include more meatless dinners in your weekly menu planning. Despite common misconceptions, modern plant-based cooking is full of delicious, protein-rich, and satisfying dishes that could never be mistaken for "rabbit food". This week's veggie...
With the warmer days and the first flowers blooming, my mind has turned to planning some springtime entertaining. A decadent weekend brunch with friends, full of lively conversation, and hopefully a mimosa or two, is a favorite daytime option. Here, my recipe for a classic hollandaise sauce is poured over a seasonal variation of eggs benedict, featuring cured salmon and fresh asparagus in place of the Canadian bacon. Ingredients: For the Hollandaise: 4 egg yolks 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed...
As regular readers of my column might recall, I often use my time in the kitchen to satisfy my periodic bouts of wanderlust. Recreating discoveries made during past travels, or dreaming of future trips, cooking and eating have become an extension to my passport. Music, like great food, can have the effect of transporting me to faraway places, with my kitchen playlist often influenced by what is on the stove. There are passionate Mexican corridos on my stereo when stirring a pot of mole, while...
For weeks now, my thoughts have been with the people of Ukraine, as they have bravely faced unimaginable horrors. It has been difficult to just sit back while watching a war unfold over five thousand miles away. This week, to learn more about the Ukrainian people and what they are fighting to protect, I have spent time in the kitchen researching the cuisine of this culturally rich country. Varenyky, boiled stuffed dumplings, similar to Polish pierogi, are a beloved dish passed down through the...
At the age of 29 I moved to New York City on a whim. Not to sound dramatic, but the year that followed was truly the best of times and the absolute worst of times. On nights when I felt completely broken and exhausted from the rat race, I would take myself out for a dinner date with a book. Just a few blocks from my apartment was a cozy, hole-in-the-wall Italian restaurant that quickly became a favorite. With flickering candles, cheap carafes of house chianti, and a menu featuring unpretentious...
With the combination of my ever-hectic work schedule, my better half recently starting grad school, and our looming list of spring garden projects, it's no wonder I've found myself researching recipes for easy weeknight dinners. Making great use of pantry staples, and often coming together in one pot, these kitchen classics can be lifesavers for busy families. This week, I went with my take on a cozy Italian American classic, sausages simmered in a flavorful sauce of sweet peppers, onions, and...
Since moving to Waitsburg, we have been slowly remodeling our older home one room at a time. Finally, the end is in sight with the biggest project, a planned complete overhaul of our kitchen, scheduled for later this year. In anticipation of this, we have been getting by with the aging components of our current kitchen, making piecemeal repairs to buy us time until we eventually replace everything. Lately, it seems that as soon as we fix one problem the next one pops up. First, it was the...
On a recent sunny walk around town, I spotted the first early spring crocus of the season, and on Main Street, the dirty giant mountains of old plowed snow have finally melted away. Even so, the cold dark nights and frosty mornings of late winter continue. Yes, despite our yearnings for spring, it is still most definitely sweater and casserole weather. This week, I turned to ground turkey to create an unexpected twist on an old favorite recipe, Shepherd's Pie. Filling the house with tempting...
In preparation for Valentine's Day, my attention naturally turns to food. The kitchen has always been an extension of my heart; cooking is an act of love. While flowers and little trinkets are lovely, in my mind it is homemade edible gifts that have the most meaning. Among the list of romantic bites, sweet treats, and supposed aphrodisiacs, the ingredient most associated with this annual celebration of romance is chocolate. Foiled boxes of dark chocolate truffles, rich chocolate tortes, and...
As we trudge through the gloomy cold days of late winter, my kitchen has been keeping us warm with a steady rotation of favorite soup recipes. With these simmering pots of comfort, I am always looking for the perfect thing to serve on the side for dipping, dunking, and sopping. Homemade fluffy focaccia, crusty bread, cornbread, and biscuits have all been tried. Naan, a flatbread from India, is a leavened option that is relatively quick to produce and cooks beautifully on the stovetop. Finished w...
My favorite recipes tend to be ones that serve as a technique and ratio guide, leaving ample room for experimenting with flavors. These are the versatile recipes that I turn to when assessing what's in the fridge or pantry while trying to plan a weeknight dinner that doesn't involve another trip to the grocery store. Among these trusted kitchen staples is this frittata recipe which easily comes together in one pan and can be adjusted to include an array of ingredient combinations. Here, I went...
Brussels sprouts are sadly in the category of misunderstood produce. When poorly prepared, such as being boiled to oblivion, they become bitter and mushy, a taste that is sure to leave a negative opinion. However, with correct handling, they can be sweet, robust, and nutty. Chefs today encourage the formation of these flavors by searing, roasting, or charring the little brassicas. Here the nuttiness of roasted Brussels sprouts combined with sweet roasted squash, briny cheese, and a smooth...