Serving Waitsburg, Dayton and the Touchet Valley
Serving Waitsburg, Dayton and the Touchet Valley
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While the world of winemaking is often defined by its strict adherence to time-honored techniques and traditions, its survival has always relied on embracing new trends. Perhaps no one knows this better than long-time Waitsburg resident and acclaimed wine writer Paul Gregutt. Writing about wine since 1985, his career includes time as the wine columnist for the Seattle Times, Contributing Editor and Northwest wine reviewer for Wine Enthusiast magazine, and author of several books. Always at the...
At about this time every winter, I find myself missing the sun-kissed flavor of tomatoes from our late-summer garden. The flurries of snow and cold have given me a serious case of wanderlust, and I've found myself daydreaming of exploring cliffside villages along the Southern Italian coast. To satisfy these sudden (and oddly specific) cravings I turned to an old favorite recipe for comforting eggplant parmesan, a.k.a. melanzane alla parmigiana. The lightly fried eggplant, punctuated with robust...
My mother's family has roots in Texas, which often influences our holiday gatherings. In Texas, as with much of the South, eating black-eyed peas on New Year's Day is thought to bring good luck and fortune in the coming year. We often serve them simmered with bacon, along with a big hunk of my aunt's famous cornbread. This year, I wanted to try a twist on this family tradition, one that included a nod to my Latino heritage. The result was flavorful spiced black-eyed peas stuffed into flakey...
Of all the holiday parties, one of my favorites to host has always been New Year's Eve. Combining the effervescent excitement of counting down to midnight with my love for fancy finger foods and sparkling wine makes for memorable entertaining. To counter those extra pours of tiny bubbles, it is important to offer your guests a varied selection of satisfying nibbles that are easy to eat with one hand while mingling. Cured meats, cheese boards, olives, shrimp cocktail, oysters, and gougères,...
For the food-obsessed, like me, planning a menu for a holiday fête can take weeks of research and recipe testing. While Thanksgiving is often made up of standard classics to pair with turkey, for me Christmas is an opportunity to experiment, building menus centered on different meaty mains. Over the years, my holiday repertoire has developed a rotation of favorites from Julia's bœuf bourguignon, or herb-crusted rib roast, to stone fruit stuffed pork loin and classic glazed ham. Once the main d...
Among the things I love about living in Waitsburg are the packages of homemade Christmas cookies that we receive from several of our neighbors this time of year. Brightly frosted sugar cookies, chocolate crinkles, and spiced oatmeal raisin are just a few of the sweet delights already lovingly gifted to us this holiday season. A simple but thoughtful gesture, the sharing of treats from home kitchens is the kind of thing that gives small towns such big hearts. With platters of assorted baked...
While, to some, cranberries are seen only on holiday tables in the form of a jellied sauce out of a can, for me they are a beloved year-round ingredient. The bright red fruit, with its distinctive tart flavor, can add the perfect sparkle to both sweet and savory dishes. The American cranberry, Vaccinium macrocarpon, which is delicious either as fresh plump berries or sweet dried fruit, is native to North America. Interestingly, after Wisconsin and Massachusetts, Washington State is one of...
After a decadent week of holiday cooking, made with ridiculous amounts of butter, heavy cream, and cheese, I found myself craving a salad. In times like this, I turn to nutrient packed and brightly colored vegetables, such as beetroots, as a break from the seasonal parade of casseroles. Here, tender sweet roasted beets enlivened with orange, lemon, and red onion make for a gem-toned delight. The olives and parsley add to a sunny flavor evocative of the Mediterranean, which is a lovely place to...
After a whirlwind week of menu planning, shopping, and cooking, all for one holiday feast, the next day can leave one with little energy to make another meal. Thankfully, leftover turkey is a versatile ingredient for quick post-holiday meals. Over the years I have tried everything from simple turkey sandwiches to more ambitious mole enchiladas, though on these cold late autumn nights, my favorite option is always a comforting pot of soup. This warming white bean and kale soup, which comes...
Recipes for holiday side dishes can vary greatly across the country, and opinions on proper preparations can be a source of debate, even within families. My Aunt Gail learned this the hard way while helping prepare a feast at a family reunion. She hoped to impress her Texas relatives with an alternative to classic sweet potato casserole, the kind made extra sweet with the addition of a molten marshmallow topping. She lovingly prepared sweet potatoes roasted with apples, spiced with cinnamon,...
When it comes to feeding a crowd, few things can satisfy like a bubbling creamy casserole. Green Bean Casserole is a retro dish from an era when canned and frozen foods were elevated to symbols of prosperity. The original recipe was developed in 1955 by Dorcas Reilly, who was the Test Kitchen Manager at the Campbell's Soup company, as a way to sell more cans of Condensed Cream of Mushroom Soup. Hugely popular, it has since risen to the ranks of an American classic. For many, the Thanksgiving...
The beauty of autumn is in full colorful display, and the countdown to one of my favorite holidays, Thanksgiving, has officially begun. A celebration of the season in the form of a lovingly prepared feast, shared with friends and family, is a tradition dear to my heart. The menu served over the years has slowly morphed, the result of trying new recipes and perfecting those passed through the generations. Whether you are hosting the big meal, or you are a guest tasked with bringing a side, having...
Among my most memorable dining experiences is of enjoying a bowl of perfectly sauced handmade pasta paired with a glass of humble house wine. This was a decade ago, at a little pop-up lunch counter tucked inside a tiny gelato shop along the Pike Place Market Hill Climb, those steep stairs that climb from the Seattle waterfront into the heart of the market. Only open for weekday lunch, with a small menu that changed daily written on a chalkboard, this was Il Corvo, a hidden gem that quickly...
Biscuits and Gravy is a dish that can swing wildly from utterly delicious to painfully disappointing. Seemingly on every breakfast and brunch menu across the country, this comforting classic often feels like an afterthought. Lifeless, dry biscuits covered in sad runny gravy can often taste bland and pasty. Run away! Once mastered, this recipe will make you never want to order this southern breakfast staple in a restaurant again. Beautiful flakey biscuits, scrumptious with or without the gravy,...
To say that Texans love their food is an understatement. As a kid, most of my summers were spent visiting my beloved grandparents and extended family in the great Lone Star State. Born and raised on the west coast, these trips never lacked in uniquely Texan culinary discoveries. Whether at a favorite restaurant, a smokey barbeque joint, or sitting around the table at a cousin's house, every family gathering was centered around sharing good food, and lots of it. It was at such an event that I...
Autumn, with its crisp sunny days and frosty nights, such as we have had this past week, is my favorite time of year. Watching the leaves change color, donning cozy sweaters, and tending bubbling pots of soup, are how I celebrate this season. Of all the ingredients used in the fall kitchen, winter squash is probably the most versatile. Sweet or savory, there are countless ways to enjoy the many shapes and colors of the squash family. Here the squash is roasted before being pureed into a silky...
This past summer, with its long dry heatwave, was difficult on several plants in our kitchen garden. I had lost all hope for our row of basil plants in August, as they looked quite sad and limp. Now, after a month of less severe temperatures, the garden has rebounded and we have a giant crop of perfectly fragrant basil, just in time to coincide with the abundance of late season ripe tomatoes that have piled up. Though summer is technically over, the season has been extended in our house with all...
The season for sweaters and comfort food has arrived, and I couldn't be happier. While autumn is my favorite season for many reasons, fall cooking is at the top of that list. Few vegetables are more comforting than the humble and versatile potato. Baked, mashed, roasted, or fried, I am always experimenting with ways to elevate the much-loved starchy tuber. One recipe that I have come back to time and time again, is Julia Child's Gratin Dauphinois. Thinly sliced potatoes scalloped with milk,...
Summer is over and after what felt like forever, our tomatoes have finally ripened. To celebrate, this week ripe tomatoes have made an appearance at every meal, in salads, on sandwiches, tossed in pastas, or simply sprinkled with salt as an afternoon snack. We have bowls of tomatoes set aside to be turned into sauce, jars of which will add some sunshine in the kitchen through winter. When tomatoes are fresh, ripe and in-season, I find it best to pair them with just a few choice ingredients, to...
At the age of twelve, I attempted my first risotto. I stirred and stirred, carefully following the instructions in a copy of Bon Appétit magazine. Slightly panicked that it wasn't looking right, I darted back and forth between staring at the stove and rereading the recipe, until magically I had a sumptuous pot of creamy, savory rice. That stressful half-hour taught me a little bit about culinary science, and a lot about perseverance in the kitchen. Ingredients: 2 pounds acorn or butternut...
When I lived in Seattle, one of my favorite spots for relaxed dining was Le Pichet on First Avenue, just up the hill from Pike Place Market. Watching traffic pass by, while enjoying refined bistro fare, I felt transported to a Parisian sidewalk café. This time of year, as late summer moves into fall, I would anticipate the return of a favorite menu item, their French Onion Soup. With sweet, caramelized onions melded into a rich stock topped with country bread and melted cheese, this comforting...
Last week, we were gifted a bountiful bowl of fresh local peaches. Few summer treats are as special as the first juicy bite of a perfectly ripe peach at peak season. With a family birthday coming up, I wanted to create a special dessert to highlight the beautiful plump stone fruit. This tart combines French sugar crust (pâte sablée) and a pastry cream (crème pâtissière) with a hint of cardamom to create a delicate backdrop for the vibrant fresh fruit. Ingredients: For the crust: 1 ⅓ cups all-pur...
Kohlrabi, with its funny name and alien appearance, is the type of overlooked vegetable that can seem intimidating to most home cooks. Originating from northern Europe, kohlrabi is in the brassica family, related to kale, broccoli, and cabbage. Both the bulbous stem and the sprouting leaves are edible, with a sweet crisp flavor that can be enjoyed raw or cooked. This past week, the first kohlrabi of the season was ready to pick in our garden, a welcomed change from the recent endless bounty of z...
Often, my kitchen inspiration is based on what is ripe and ready for picking in the garden. Our backyard has provided an abundance of tomatillos and chili peppers this week, which instantly had me thinking about Salsa Verde. A versatile sauce that blends the piquant brightness of the tomatillos with cilantro and fresh green chilis, Salsa Verde is wonderful served cold or hot. Here, I have used it as a braising liquid for chicken, which is then finished in the oven with cheese. A satisfying dish...
America has a love affair with cheeseburgers. From fast-food to fine dining, there are different versions of this national favorite in every region. Inspired by the bounty of green chilis ready for picking in my back yard, I found myself craving a burger with flavors of the desert Southwest. Opting for flavorful ground bison spiced with garlic and coriander, I created a green chili "special sauce" to compliment with just the right amount of heat. Creamy pepper jack cheese and smokey bacon were...
