FOOD

Welcome to my food column where anything goes. Here we'll explore the history of how we arrived where we are today through food and the ingredients that we commonly use and take for granted all the time.

To understand where your food came from is akin to knowing where we came from and the common bond that the family farm and table provides.

This installment explores the noble pig -- though it just scratches the surface. I sat down the other day with Eric Seo- ane of the Weinhard Café in Dayton, one of the best young chefs in the region, to talk about all things pork-a-licious - the noble and honorable pig.

One of the prime benefits that pork provides is each cut offers different flavors and textures. Most cuts of pork are very lean and healthy. The tenderloin and chops have less fat ounce-for-ounce than chicken breast meat and retain their fla- vor while supporting rubs, smokes, herbs, spices and sauces.

Historically pigs were considered unclean, which led peoples of Jewish, Christian, Muslim and other faiths to shun eating pork because it was considered a dirty animal. This was primarily because of the conditions in which the animals were raised in the days before modern husbandry methods were introduced. Today the old practices of raising pigs in filthy pens are mostly a thing of the past which means that thankfully pork is back on the menu.

The recent resurgence of artisan charcuterie - a style of preserved meats that includes salami, sopressata, bacon, ham, trotters, rillettes, terrines, galantines, ptés, and confit, are predominately and historically pork based. These significant preparations showcase the incredible flexibility of the pig. The other old-world technique that is back in vogue is the forcemeat method where a mixture of ground meats is emulsifi ed with the fat from the sale animal. It can be either coarse or silky fine in texture. Sausages are common and popular examples of the forcemeat process.

When it comes to traditional cooking methods, pork is also a wonder - taking on every method known with grace. From braising to roasting, frying, brining, baking, BBQ and smoking to stir-fry, you name it and you can do it.

In the summertime I love to serve the following dish to family and friends. This recipe is not difficult though it re- quires a bit of planning and the end results are well worth the effort. One important note for this dish: Do not salt the meat - the brine and ham stock both have plenty of salt in them already.

Chef Eric Seoane at the Weinhard Café in Dayton makes a fabulous dish of braised pork ribs. Below is a great pork recipe.

Braised Pork Ribs with Peach & Mango Chuntney, courtesy of Chef Eric Seoane

Primary Ingredients:

Two Full Racks of Pork Ribs

5 - 6 tbsp dry rub seasoning (recipe follows)

1 large onion, chopped in medium chunks

2 large carrots, chopped in medium chunks

2 stalks celery, chopped in medium chunks

3 cloves garlic

3 whole bay leaves

3 tbsp freshly ground whole black pepper

½ bunch broad-leaf parsley

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

5 sprigs thyme

10 whole fresh sage leaves

¼ cup dry white wine

Enough water to cover the pork in a roasting pan

For the Rub:

1 tablespoon cumin

1 tablespoon smokedpaprika

1 tablespoon granulated

garlic

1 tablespoon granulated

onion

1 tablespoon chili

powder

1 tablespoon brownsugar

Method: Rubs need a little time to blend together so that all the flavors do a dance. We recommend making this a day or two in ad- vance. This is an intense flavor rub so follow direc- tions closely.

Place all ingredients in a large bowl and whisk thoroughly for 3 minutes to ensure even distribution of all the spices and herbs.

Place in a sealed ziplock bag and allow to rest together for at least a day in a dark cool place.