EAT

I love chicken. I just want that understood right from the get-go. Chicken is the most versatile meat on the planet, and while I know that point could be argued through time eternal please don't bother - my mind's made up on this point. You disagree? Take one minute to think about all the amazing at­tributes of the humble chicken that cannot be matched. White meat or dark meat, crispy skin or not - the birds' got you covered. Whether you like stews, bbq's, fried foods, roasts, stir-fry, sandwiches, braised dishes, pté's, sausages, soups and stocks, salads, freeze-dried, and you can't discount my grandmothers claim as the only true and sure cure for the common cold! Face it, there is no other primary protein that can do what chicken can do. I'm glad you agree with me so now we can break chickens down even further.

There are dishes that work well with hens. There are dishes that specifically take advantage of the rooster. Then there is the incredible edible egg, which has been called the perfect balanced form of protein. So yes - the chicken is the perfect ingredient for just about everything. I'll concede ice cream but aside from that I'm sticking with my hypothesis.

As wonderful and flexible as basic chicken is there is one thing even better - mini chickens! Known as Cornish Game Hens (even though there is nothing gamey about them at all) these little chicklets are a cross breed of the Cornish Game, the Plymouth and/or the White Rock chicken. These mini chickens are even better than their bigger family members! They are sweeter with a delicate flesh that is tender and holds moisture much better than your basic run-o-the-mill chicken you'll find in the grocery henpack. As an added bonus they come in pre-grown single-serving sizes. Now that is what I call convenience and it really is quite accommodating on their part.

You can prepare your little cluckers as you would a regular chicken but since we're dealing with a lightly sweeter, subtler flavor and texture why not think outside the bwaks? One of my favorite methods for cooking Cornish game hens is to give them an aromatic spice rub inside and out. I tend to favor a lightly toasted cumin, ground cardamom, coriander seed and salt rub. Then stuff your birds with a whole large white mushroom or two, crumbled crispy bacon, a wedge of lemon, a whole clove of garlic, a prune and some croutons.

Next up, put a layer of small red roasting potatoes in the bottom of a roasting pan. Coarsely cut up a few leeks (white part and just a little of the light green only,) and then toss some olive oil and off-dry white wine in the bottom of the pan with a couple of sprigs of fresh thyme. Add some fresh ground black pepper and bam - you've got more than just fowl play.

Because Cornish Game Hens are a bit smaller than your regular roasting chicken I cook them at 325 for 30 minutes on a lower rack in the oven, then crank the oven up to 425 for 10 minutes - moving the pan to the upper rack to finish off and crisp up the skin.

After you pull the pan from the oven it's time work up the sauce and that's totally easy and fun to boot! Put the hens on a p[late and cover with some foil to allow the meat to rest. Scoop up the veggies at the bottom of the pan and put in a bowl. I use a large slotted spoon for this to allow most of the juices to remain in the pan. Have a small saucepan ready and drain all the juices through a strainer into the saucepan. Turn it up to medium and lightly whisk as your pan juice starts to simmer. You'll want to reduce this down to the point where it lightly sticks to the back of a spoon. When it gets to this nice smooth consistency, add in 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter and whisk in until smooth and shiny.

To serve all you need to do is put a few potatoes on the plate, add a bird and drizzle with some of the pan sauce. Serve up with the L'Ecole Sémillon from the wine article just to the right - yes - over there - and you're dining in style! Santehellip;