Judith Henderson’s Wine & Country Living

I n Walla Walla, heading down Popular Avenue towards Home Depot on the left hand side, you'll see Bergevin Lane Winery. Some days the barn doors can be seen rolled-up with the winery tank room visible to the road; wooden crush crates stacked high, pumps, stainless tanks and oak barrels exposed.

This local winery is manned by owners Dave Bergevin, daughter Annette Bergevin, partner Amber Lane and wine- maker Dave Harvey. The story behind just how this group of family-friends developed the company is known by wine lovers visiting the tasting room Monday to Saturday. But what I want to do today is introduce the Bergevin Lane 2012 Dreamweaver Roussanne white wine to readers who don't know about this beautiful, more unusual white wine and its luscious flavor profile.

First, the Roussane grape is originally from Rhone Val- ley, France, where, like here, it is a grape blended with other white grapes for its mellow acidic properties. First planted in our region in 1990 in small lots, the Roussanne today is a steady producer among white grapes of the region. On the vine, the Roussanne is known for its flowery, almost herbal tea-like aroma and its distinct russet color when ripe. The Roussanne grape can be temperamental. For its full potential, there is a right time to pick and a problem with high acid if picked too soon.

The aged 2012 Bergevin Lane Dreamweaver Roussane - 88% Roussanne 12% viognier - over time has acquired a "scrummy" little ribbon of creaminess. Being picked at the perfect time, cluster pressed and sur lie aged 80 days in oak and neutral barrels, this white wine is perfect now and will continue to age in the bottle for later service. Twenty-four dollars in the tasting room: 1215 Poplar Street, Walla Walla, 509-526-4300.

Cellar Talk: tasting notes for the 2012 Dreamweaver Roussane begin with first swirl of the glass, nose buried deep in the bowl where warm honeysuckle notes open the sense. With first sip, a deliberate stroke of warm butterscotch paints the inner cheeks followed with a bright swipe of rich tangelo jam, ending in a puddle of creamy citron center tongue.

Readers, until next week, "Eat Art, Drink Imagination!"

Orange Burre Blanc

Juice of 2-oranges

½-cup roussanne white wine

2-teaspoons minced shallots

2-sticks melted butter

In a sauté pan over medium heat, add first three ingredi- ents; simmer whisking until syrupy. Slowly add melted butter to emulsify, steadily whisking until smooth and thickening. Drizzle over white fish and perfectly steamed green beans paired with a bottle of 2012 Bergevin Lane Dreamweaver Roussanne white wine!

For more original recipes, color photos and menu sugges- tions go to: www.chefjudithhenderson.com.