Lentil and Celery Minestra

While it often feels controversial, I have always been a lover of the winter months. Watching the snow gently fall while tending to a simmering pot is one of my favorite simple pleasures. During snow events, like we have had this past week, I turn to recipes that can make magic out of a few pantry staples and keep me from having to leave the house. This hearty soup brings nourishing lentils and bright tomatoes together with one of my favorite overlooked vegetables: celery. The herbaceous and earthy qualities of the celery are distinct and bring an unexpected dimension of flavor to a comforting meal.

Ingrediants:

1 cup lentils, rinsed (see notes)

1 onion, halved lengthwise

3 sprigs thyme

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 medium carrot, diced

4 celery stalks, diced

2-3 garlic cloves, minced

Salt

1 28-oz can chopped tomatoes, with liquid

2 tablespoons tomato paste

Pinch of sugar

Chopped flat leaf parsley

Fresh ground black pepper

Grated Parmesan cheese for serving

Croutons, optional (see notes)

Directions:

Combine the lentils, one half of the onion (keep root end attached so layers stay connected), thyme, and bay leaf with 1 quart of water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and add salt to taste. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes.

While the lentils simmer, start on the soup base. Chop the other half of the onion. Heat the butter and oil in a heavy soup pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery, and cook, stirring often, until the onion is tender, about 5 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and a pinch of salt, stir until fragrant for about a minute, then add the tomatoes with all their liquid and the pinch of sugar. Bring to a simmer, stirring often, until the tomatoes have reduced a bit and melded with the other vegetables, about 10 to 15 minutes.

When the lentils are done, discard the onion half, thyme stems and bay leaf, while keeping the cooking liquid. Add the lentils and their cooking broth to the tomato base. Stir in the tomato paste, another pinch of salt with an additional 2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning. Season to taste with fresh ground black pepper and stir in the chopped parsley. Serve with a generous grating of parmesan and have a bowl of cheese for passing around the table.

Notes:

Lentils come in an array of colors, each with different flavor profiles and final cooked texture. For this recipe choose a lentil that will hold its shape in the soup, such as French Puy, green or brown lentils. I used beautiful black "beluga" lentils. Red and yellow lentils, often used in Indian and Middle Eastern cuisines, tend to break apart in cooking, which is great in recipes where you want the extra thickening.

If you happen to have a hunk of Parmesan rind add it to the lentil cooking liquid. The rind will dissolve and add an extra rich depth of flavor to the finished soup.

If your celery heart has lots of tender leaves in the center, pinch them off and chop them up with the parsley.

If, like I did, you have some stale bread sitting around make some croutons to serve on top. Tear the bread into rough 1 inch pieces, toss them in olive oil, salt and other spices of your choice. I used paprika. Then spread them on a sheet pan and toast in a 375 degree oven for about 15 to 20 minutes, turning halfway. Keep an eye on them, they can go from perfectly toasted to burnt very quickly.

Pair with a fruit forward Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, a smooth Barbera d'Alba or perhaps a Chianti Classico. I served it with a 2018 R. Stuart & Co. "Autograph" Pinot Noir, which was divine.