Pesce all'Acqua Pazza (Fish in Crazy Water)

We make several trips to the southern Washington coast throughout the year. From the lazy sunny days of summer to the dramatic storms of winter, there is something special about each season. My favorite time to visit is September through October, when the weather is still lovely and the post-Labor Day tourist crowds are much smaller. Last week, we were able to sneak off for a quick weekend get-away where we were met with perfect weather and a chance to satisfy our built-up seafood cravings. At the local market I found some gorgeous ripe heirloom tomatoes and some beautiful wild caught Pacific cod. With just a few other pantry-staples I was able to test an intriguing recipe from southern Italy that I had recently come across, fish poached in what translates to "crazy water." With my addition of crispy capers and a squeeze of lemon juice, the resulting dish made for a memorable meal.

Ingredients:

Olive oil

3 tablespoons capers

2 to 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

Pinch of crushed red-pepper flakes

1 ½ pounds fresh ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped

Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper

4 (6-ounce) fillets firm white fish, such as sea bass, cod, or halibut

Juice of half a lemon

Flat leaf parsley, chopped for garnish

Lemon slices for serving

Grilled or crusty bread, for serving

Directions:

First make the crispy capers. Pour ¼" of olive oil into a small saucepan, and heat over medium heat. Use a thermometer to bring oil to 350 degrees. A small cube of bread dropped into the oil should crisp up golden brown in 30 seconds when the temperature is correct. Rinse and drain the capers, then lay on a paper towel to dry. When oil is hot, add the capers all at once and fry for 1 to 2 minutes, until crispy and lightly golden. The capers will open up like flowers. Use a slotted spoon to remove capers and drain on a plate lined with paper towels. Set aside.

Off heat, combine ¼ cup olive oil with the garlic, fennel seeds, and red pepper flakes into a large skillet with high sides. Set pan over medium-low heat and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, swirling occasionally, until the garlic is sizzling and fragrant.

Add 2 ½ cups water and 2 teaspoons kosher salt (or 1 teaspoon fine sea salt) with the tomatoes and all their juices. Bring to a boil over high heat, then cover with a lid. Reduce heat to medium and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. The tomatoes should soften, and the water should turn brightly colored and flavored of tomato.

Pat the fish fillets dry and season both sides with salt and black pepper. Adjust heat between medium and medium-low, to maintain liquid at a very gentle simmer. Lay the fish into the tomato water, cover, and cook until done, 4 to 8 minutes depending on the thickness of the fillets. Fish is done when just cooked through, opaque, and the flesh easily flakes. Don't overcook. Take off heat and squeeze the juice of half a lemon over the top.

Taste the water and adjust seasoning, adding more salt or red-pepper flakes as needed. If the water has reduced too much, add a bit more hot-water to return to a broth-like consistency. Serve fish floating in shallow bowls full of the tomato water. Garnish the tops of each bowl with a drizzle of olive oil, a heavy pinch of the crispy capers and chopped parsley. Serve with lemon slices at the table and plenty of warm crusty or grilled bread.

Notes:

This recipe is an example of the perfect simplicity found in much of Italian cuisine where just a few choice ingredients and approachable culinary techniques come together to create vibrantly flavored dishes. With variations found in several parts of coastal southern Italy, this recipe got its intriguing "crazy" name either because of the flavor packed water or because originally fisherman used to use seawater as the base for the poaching liquid. It is important that the tomato water doesn't thicken into a sauce, keep it as thin as a broth.

It is important to poach the fish gently by keeping the tomato water at a gentle simmer. Keep an eye, and do not let the fish overcook. To keep them crispy, add the capers on top just before serving. Any extra crispy capers can be served on the side. Enjoy!