Hyland 2022 Old Vine Single Vineyard Riesling

Though it was a major part of the original plantings back in the 1970s when this pioneering Oregon vineyard was first established, Riesling is now a minor player in the Hyland mix. This is the product of own-rooted (ungrafted) vines that are between 45 and 50 years old and bring the special density and detail that simply cannot be expressed in younger fruit. Tart, fresh, sassy citrus fruit flavors are streaked with veins of wet rock. The long, lip-licking finish brings subtle hints of honeysuckle and orange liqueur. Yes, it's a bit pricey for a Riesling but not for a Riesling this exceptional. In that arena, it's a bargain. 800 cases; 12.5%; $28 (McMinnville)