King Estate 2022 Pinot Gris

King Estate was founded specifically to grow and produce Pinot Gris. Now entirely biodynamic, the winery has grown to become one of Oregon's most diverse and influential. Pinot Gris remains a strong suit, with up to seven different versions in a single vintage – probably as much as the rest of Oregon combined. It's almost iconic, with full, fleshy pear fruit, buoyant acids, and a mouth-pleasing texture. Green apple, cucumber, and grapefruit highlights follow. This is the most widely available bottling, and three-fifths is from estate-grown fruit. A touch of white pepper enlivens the finish. It's not too soon to call this the ideal wine for your Thanksgiving table, at least as far as a white wine (and there should always be one) is concerned. 115000 cases; 12.9%; $19 (Willamette Valley) 92/100.

Harder to find but worth the extra buck or two is King Estate's 2022 Artisan Series Pinot Gris, an all-estate bottling fermented entirely in stainless steel. Ripe and focused, it features flavors of lemon meringue, tangerine ice, quince and papaya. 1000 cases; 13.8%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 93/100.