Salisbury Steak

Sometimes, when researching for this column, I like to search through my vintage cookbook collection for inspiration. It can be amusing, and sometimes a little frightening, to imagine what home cooks were putting on the table 60 or 70 years ago: So much JELLO. However, there are some homey favorites that deserve a fresh look, like this recipe for tender Salisbury Steak, smothered in a rich mushroom gravy. While some may only imagine the compartments of TV dinner trays, this updated version makes an impressive and satisfying weeknight meal.

Ingredients:

For the steaks:

1 medium yellow onion

3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

3 tablespoons ketchup

1 teaspoon packed brown sugar

1 large egg

Salt and fresh ground black pepper

1 pound ground beef

½ to ¾ cup panko bread crumbs

Olive oil

For the gravy:

8 ounces cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 cup beef stock

½ cup whole milk

Fresh parsley or chives, chopped for garnish

Directions:

Grate one quarter of the onion into a large mixing bowl (should yield about ¼ cup of onion pulp). Set the remaining onion aside for now. To the grated onion add Worcestershire sauce, ketchup, brown sugar, and egg. Season generously with salt and black pepper, then whisk with a fork to combine. Add the ground beef and panko, mixing until just combined. Don't overmix. With your hands, form the mixture into 8 small, oval-shaped patties about 1-inch thick. Place patties on a plate and set in the refrigerator to chill for at least 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, finely dice the remaining onion and set aside for the gravy.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add enough olive oil to lightly coat the bottom of the pan. When the oil is hot, cook the patties in batches, until browned, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

To the same skillet, add the onion and mushrooms with a pinch of salt, and raise the heat to medium-high. Cook, until deeply browned, about 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. During the first half of the cooking time the vegetables will release a lot of water, then they will start browning. Be careful not to burn and add more oil to the pan if it looks too dry.

Sprinkle the flour evenly over the browned mushrooms, then stir to incorporate. Cook for about a minute, stirring constantly. Stir in the beef stock and milk, scraping up any browned bits, and bring to a simmer. Season the sauce with salt and pepper then reduce the heat to medium-low to maintain a gently simmer. Taste the gravy at this point and adjust seasoning. Add more Worcestershire or ketchup to build a rich flavor.

Add the seared steaks in a single layer to the skillet along with any accumulated juices. Baste gravy over the tops of each steak. Continue to simmer, basting the steaks a couple of times, until the gravy has thickened, and the steaks are cooked through, about 5 to 10 minutes. Serve with a garnish of parsley or chives.

Notes:

For a little more depth, try adding a splash of balsamic vinegar while the gravy is simmering. You could also try using a mix of wild mushrooms to create an elevated version of this dish.

In keeping with the mid-century theme, I served this with scalloped potatoes and buttered peas. This dish would also be wonderful served with mashed potatoes, buttered egg noodles, or steamed rice. A crisp green salad on the side would be a lovely way to balance out the richness.

Enjoy.